Embroidery Crafts: Zardosi, Crafted Beauty

• Zari is also known as Zardosi embroidery. Zardosi combines two Persian terms: ‘zari’ means gold, and ‘dozi’ means embroidery. 
  • Thus, the embroidery is done using gold and silver thread for embroidery work. 
• Khandela (Rajasthan) and Jaipur are famous for Zari work.
• The popular styles in Zari embroidery in India are Salma Sitara, Kamdani, Minakari, Mokaish, Gota, etc. 
• Another related technique to Zari is Karchobi, which originates from Rajasthan. 
  • It involves sewing flat stitches onto cotton stuffing to produce an elevated pattern resembling metallic threads, similar to Zari.

• Chikankari embroidery originates from the Persian word “Chakeen,” denoting elegant patterns on fabric.
• The embroidery is prominently practiced in Uttar Pradesh, particularly in Lucknow, renowned as a Chikankari hub.
• It is also known as shadow work, achieved through herringbone stitches from the fabric’s wrong side, creating a shadow effect on the right side and outlining motifs.
• Traditionally done on white muslin fabric with white thread, it is now extended to various materials like linen, georgette, cotton, etc.

• Kantha, derived from Sanskrit, means “rags,” which involves stitching discarded garments, like layers of dhotis or saris, and a simple running stitch using white thread.
• Kantha embroidery falls into two categories: 
  • One involves quilting and embroidering piled-up cotton saris, or dhotis. 
  • The other employs discarded cotton bedspreads and features pictorial embroidery with Tussar silk threads.
• Motifs used in Kantha embroidery encompass symbols like Lotus, Solar, Moon, Wheel, Swastik, Kalka, and Tree of Life.

• Kasuti is an art form of women. 
  • The word Kasuti is derived from the word Kai which means hand, and Suti means cotton thread. 
  • Thus Kasuti is the handwork of cotton thread.
• Kasuti embroidery employs a single thread and requires careful thread counting on the fabric. 
  • The patterns are created without knots, ensuring symmetry on both sides of the cloth.
• The fabric used for kasuti embroidery is Irkal sarees.

• It is a traditional embroidery style originating from the Parsi community in India. It is known for its intricate, highly detailed, floral, and nature-inspired designs.

(Manipur)

• The embroidery is from Manipur, and it involves mixing weaving and embroidery.

(Rajasthan)

• Karchobi is Rajasthan’s renowned needlework involving raised zari metallic thread embroidery. It is created with flat stitches on cotton padding.

(Rajasthan)

• Small pieces of gold zari ribbon are applied onto the fabric with the edges sewn down to create elaborate patterns. 

(Rajasthan and Gujarat)

• Pichwai embroidery is from the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat. It is a beautiful and colourful hanging used as a backdrop to religious idols. 

(Gujarat)

• It is embroidery done by the Lohana community. It uses silk floss for embroidery of geometrical motifs, including the use of glass works.

(Gujarat)

• It is an embroidery style by the nomadic Rabari tribes of Gujarat.
• It features chain stitch work adorned with tiny mirrors, often done on brightly dyed fabrics.

(Gujarat)

• It is a double ikat style from Gujarat, mainly used for silk saris. It employs a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye.

(Kashmir and Gujarat)

• It is created in fine, concentric rings of chain stitch using a long hooked needle called the crewel and involves floral motifs. 

(Kashmir)

• Janawar are intricately designed shawls made in Kashmir. It is known for fine craftsmanship, with no discernible front or back.

(Kashmir)

• Pashmina is the name given to fine cashmere wool and textiles made from it. The wool is derived from Changthangi goats. It is finer and thinner, suitable for lightweight apparel.

(Jammu and Kashmir)

• It involves using simple chain stitches to make flora patterns. 

(Punjab and Haryana)

• Phulkari involves embroidery of flower motifs with a contrast of bright colours on light-coloured fabric. The stitches are embroidered on the reverse of the cloth.

(Punjab)

• It is similar to phulkari but has embroidery work throughout the whole surface of the fabric.

(Bihar)

• It is done on a fabric with fine muslin, typically red or white. The main motifs are outlined with thick chain stitches, filled with various coloured threads. [UPSC 2018]

(Uttar Pradesh) 

• It uses flower petals and leaves as motifs in the embroidery.

(Uttar Pradesh)

• It involves twisting thin metallic threads to create patterns all over the fabric.